The Master Manipulator (every store needs one) is the first in our area to embrace the wet palette; in fact, he's gone through several variations until he's arrived at the custom model he now uses.I went and bought one, but you see I've got a lot to learn. He's always said he doesn't feel I stretch myself enough, so when I got one a few weeks back I decided to take my time on a model instead of knocking one out.
You'll have to be the judge of whether it was worth the extra effort.
As always, you can click on the picture to zoom in.
5 comments:
Well well....something to comment on. Were to start.
Can we get some pics without the flash? No amount of photoshop will help correct your colors from a flash.
It is great that you are doing some painting that really works your skills. I think there is a place for both with you.
Let me start with the positives before I kick you in the balls. Your blending looks solid. Feel better.
Brace yourself cause it's time for the sack packing.
What color is this model supposed to be? Is he wearing red armor with a grey cloak outside and purple inside? It is really tough to tell.
Dynamic lighting is a difficult thing to do and do properly. Based on my first looks I think you may have decent execution but the wrong idea. Is the armor two toned and then lit by the light or is the second tone supposed to be from the light. I hope it is supposed to be two toned because if not...your doing it wrong.
First off remember that light almost always travels in a straight line so when using OSL only things that are in a straight line from the light source should be tinted. Also the closer to the source the brighter that tinting should be. If you are in the dark and the OSL is the only light source than everything should have that same tint to it.
If you have a red item and shine a green light on it, it will not turn yellow. At no point should it ever be brighter than the light source. Both of those things are happening here.
Another thing that is bugging me is that it seems you have some of this model where you took time and used better technique and then others you took shortcuts that you would use for speed painting. You took your time with the shading on the model, but the metals on the light post look like you drybrushed or overbrushed them. While I am on that topic...rust does not disappear when hit with light. The side of the post that the lamp is on has no rust and the back side has rust.
Does the wire/hose from the lamp glow is it being lit by the lamp? If it glows it should cast light on the post above it. If it does not glow the back side should be darker because it is not being lit by the lamp.
Speaking of the lamp....some surfaces of the surfaces that should have green light shining on them are lit like normal metalics. For example the top ring has round knobs on it. The little bit of light leaking out the top cast light on the knobs but the large amount from the bottom does not?
Ok, I think I am done for now. I appreciate the effort that was used here, I just don't think you thought through a lot of the details when you decided to light the model from the lamp. Not even mentioning that the model is holding what looks like a pink light source in his hand and nothing is tinted pink.
Whew...MY nuts started hurting about halfway through reading MM(esno)'s rundown. But I know he just wants you to paint like a champion today, and get your picture on a Wheaties box.(is that the Chariots of Fire theme I hear?)
Anyway, nice job on this, and a cool idea with the lamp. Somewhere amongst the ball-kicking he mentions the lamp brightness, and I agree there. I think the addition of some scorpion/bleached bone mix would turn that light on.
What's your take on the wet palette? I started using one recently and like it for some things, not for others.
I don't think the ball kicking is all that bad. He has good points and should be taken into account for the next time something like this is attempted. Like MMESNO said the blending is top quality, but the use of a flash is distracting. Try using a tripod and the timer option on your camera. What was said about painting light is correct so I won't revisit that, it was a solid critique but not maliciously intended; even if he said he was going to. I think he wouldn't bother if he didn't care. To add to the critique I think the light on the poll itself needs to be brighter: almost white. Look at light sabers from Star Wars, they are white in the center but the color is around the edge. That is an extreme example but a good start. Keep up the good work and practice, practice, practice.
Carlos
Carlos
Not sure about Brent but I am head over heels in love with my wet palette. I don't use it for washes but I do for everything else. Mine keeps paint moist and usable for weeks at a time and that is really helpful when you paint as slow and infrequent as I do.
gotta echo the MM on his best point - the model looks like a jumble of colors. It's far too busy in that regard. Most of that comes from the double light sources.
The lamp post isn't helping with the physical composition either.
As far as the OSL goes, its a tough trick to pull off. I think you've got a good attempt here - especially given that you're stretching yourself for the first time.
But the light that's being cast really needs to be treated the same way as any other surface (highlighted, shaded and blended) on the model to really bring the effect home and add depth.
this brush thralls tut is a good place to get some ideas.
Especially for color selection since that can be the real ball breaker.
http://blog.brushthralls.com/?s=osl
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